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One woman unrolls the curler she’s kept in her bangs for hours, and her blond-streaked hair bounces.

Another checks her sparkling turquoise eyeliner in a compact mirror.

Their sun-wrinkled faces are impassive as they stare at the women spilling into a tiny plaza, where they straighten their skirts, light cigarettes and take selfies in the fading daylight.

The bus arrived about p.m., earlier than expected, and most of the men are still at work in the surrounding farmland.

Today, 90% of the population lives in 1,500 cities and towns that together occupy only 30% of the country’s land. Gozalo begins to dance, the tips of his walrus mustache turning up as he grins.They met at an event a few years ago and meet up from time to time. Feminists have staged protests against the caravans, pointing out that the majority of women are Latin American immigrants, while the men tend to be landowners living in deeply conservative regions where remnants of Franco’s right-wing, Catholic ideology loom large.The only reason he came to the hotel, he says later, was to see her. In November, members of Castilla La Mancha’s United Left party wrote an opinion piece for the newspaper El Diario arguing that the caravans treated “women as commodities” and were “a vestige of an old-world past, profoundly In years past, two or three caravans left Madrid each month, and town governments helped cover the costs.The bus stops by a wide storage shed, the kind that holds a well-worn tractor. After a six-hour journey from Madrid — four on the bus, two for a lunch of sandwiches and sangria in a bar along the way — they’ve reached the town of Calzadilla de la Cueza, where they hope to find someone to love.Three men lean against dusty trucks near the red-brick hotel where, a few hours later, there will be dining and dancing.

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